Mastiff F.A.Q. TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION AND LEGAL STUFF Introduction Copyright Disclaimer Contributors QUESTIONS FREQUENTLY ASKED ABOUT THE MASTIFF What is a Mastiff? What is the Mastiff Club Of America (MCOA)? Where do Mastiffs come from? What are Mastiffs good for? Are all Mastiffs the same? Are Mastiffs: Aggressive? Easy to train? Fighters? Good guard dogs? Protective? Shy? What are Mastiffs like in the house? How much does a Mastiff: Cost? Eat? Weigh? Do Mastiffs: Bark much? Bite? Chew? Dig? Make good obedience dogs? Need a lot of exercise? Pass gas? Roam? Shed? Slobber? Smell? Snore? Live indoors or outdoors? How are Mastiffs with: Burglars, muggers and other miscreants? Other dogs? Other animals? Strangers? Young children? How long does a Mastiff live? Can I get a white Mastiff? What colors can I get? Male vs. female, which is friendlier? more protective? Easier to train? Is there anything special I should know about raising a Mastiff puppy - isn't it the same as any other breed? How much training does a Mastiff need? Do Mastiffs have any genetic health problems? What are the common non-genetic health problems in Mastiffs? What other problems do Mastiffs have? What kind of a temperament does a Mastiff have? What does a Mastiff eat? What kind of living quarters does a Mastiff require? How about crating? Where do they sleep? Does owning a Mastiff: Cost a lot? Require a lot of work? Are you trying to talk me out of getting a Mastiff? Where should I get a Mastiff? Where can I get more information about Mastiffs? How do I pick a Mastiff puppy? What questions should I ask the breeder (and what answers should I get) What kind of toys and other paraphernalia do I need for my Mastiff? Is that a Mastiff in: What's the difference between a Mastiff and a Bullmastiff? I. INTRODUCTION AND LEGAL STUFF   [Table Of Contents] Introduction Hello and welcome to the wonderful world of the Mastiff! In our not so humble opinion, the Mastiff is THE best breed of dog to be owned by, bar none. BUT, the Mastiff is NOT a breed for everyone. We've tried to gear this F.A.Q. towards the breed browser and the first time Mastiff wanna-be owner. Here we've tried to show both the upside and the downside of the Mastiff / human relationship. Not that we're trying to chase you away (we wish everyone could enjoy the love and companionship of one of these great beasties), but we'd much rather have you know about the possible trials and tribulations BEFORE your new Mastiff pup walks through the front door, not AFTER. As the breed's popularity and exposure increases, more and more people are getting a Mastiff without any idea what-so-ever of what they're getting into. Way too often this ends up in severe disappoint for the human and tragedy for the Mastiff. So please, please, study this F.A.Q. Ask questions. Look before you leap! We hope that this F.A.Q. in some way helps you in making your decision and/or preparing for your life with a Mastiff. Good luck and doG Bless! [Table Of Contents] Copyright This FAQ is a publication of, and Copyright (c) 1995, 1996, 1997 by, the Mastiff Club Of America, Incorporated (MCOA). All rights are reserved. The Mastiff AKC Conformation Standard is included with the permission of the American Kennel Club, Inc. The MCOA hereby gives permission to freely distribute this document in its entirety for non-profit, non-commercial, personal use and for traditional Internet archiving, provided that the document is distributed in its entirety and that no changes are made. Permission is also given to freely distribute excerpts and quotes provided that attribution is given to the Mastiff Club Of America, Inc. This FAQ may NOT be included in any commercial collections or compilations. If you find it in one, please notify the FAQ maintainer so appropriate action can be taken. [Table Of Contents] Disclaimer This FAQ is provided as is without any express or implied warranties or guarantees as to the content's accuracy, completeness or applicability to a specific animal. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this article, the MCOA, the contributors and the maintainer assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. [Table Of Contents] Contributors   Laurie Adams Donna Dick Deb Jones Sharon Krauss Kirsten Ludwig Mike McBee Linda Monroe Please send any comments, corrections or criticisms about the FAQ to the FAQ maintainer, MCOA Staff, at staff@mastiff.org. [Table Of Contents] II. QUESTIONS FREQUENTLY ASKED ABOUT THE MASTIFF   [Table Of Contents] What is a Mastiff? A Mastiff is a giant breed of dog, descended from the ancient Alaunt and Molosser. Today, mastiff is used to describe many different breeds around the world, all descended from the same root stock. In the US and other English speaking countries, Mastiff is used to refer to the Old English Mastiff (OEM), developed in England and nearly extinct after WW II. With that in mind, Mastiffs (OEMs) are generally very large dogs; fawn, apricot or brindle in color; all with a black mask and ears; possessing a medium to short coat with very little white (which, if it appears, should be confined to the chest but often appears on the toes as well). There is no upper height limit and no weight range in the Mastiff Standard. In height they generally range from the Standard's minimum of 27 1/2 inches up to 36 inches for the exceptionally tall ones. They can weigh anywhere from 110 pounds to the 343 pounds of Zorba, the world's largest dog, although most Mastiff males weigh around 160-230 pounds and females around 120-170 pounds. This breed is supposed to be very broad with a huge head, wide chest and large bone, and is longer in body than in height the Mastiff Conformation Standard. Mastiffs are not supposed to resemble Great Danes except possibly in height, nor Saint Bernards, except for the bone, width, chest and large head. They should not be as wrinkled as a Neapolitan nor as dome headed as a Dogue de Bordeaux, nor 'houndy' like a Fila Brasileiro. Mastiffs possess characteristics unique to the breed, especially the head with a broad, deep muzzle with flews hanging over the bottom lip, giving the head a square appearance. A Mastiff should possess a calm, self assured temperament and be devoted to its family and friends. Mastiffs should not be aggressive to humans or other animals, including other dogs, although, unfortunately, some of them are. Mastiffs should be steady, gentle, eager for affection, good with children, calm and self assured, and used primarily as a family companion. [Table Of Contents] What is the Mastiff Club Of America (MCOA)? The Mastiff Club Of America was incorporated in 1929 to protect and promote the Mastiff. It is the Mastiff parent breed club member of the American Kennel Club. Membership is open to persons 18 years or older, in good standing with the American Kennel Club, who subscribe to the purposes of the Club, and who agree to abide and uphold the Club's Code of Ethics, Constitution and By-Laws. Applicants must be sponsored by two MCOA members who have been members in good standing for at least three years. Applicants will be an associate member (without voting or office holding privileges) for a period of one year. The MCOA is a non-profit organization. For membership information and application forms, contact the MCOA Membership Chairman (see MCOA Club Information for contact information). The objectives of the Club are:   to encourage and promote the selective breeding of quality purebred Mastiffs and to do all possible to bring their natural qualities to fit the standard to encourage the organization of independent local Mastiff Specialty Clubs in those localities where there are sufficient fanciers of the breed to meet the requirements of the American Kennel Club to urge members and breeders to accept the standard of the breed as approved by the American Kennel Club as the only standard of excellence by which Mastiffs shall be judged to do all in its power to protect and advance the interests of the breed and to encourage sportsmanlike competition at dog shows and obedience trials to provide for the welfare of the breed through a program of Mastiff Rescue and continuing education to conduct sanctioned matches, obedience trials, and specialty shows under the rules of the American Kennel Club. The MCOA conducts a roving Independent National Specialty in the spring of each year; Check the buttons at the top of this page for a link to more information about the upcoming Specialty. The Club publishes a quarterly Journal available by subscription (see MCOA Club Information for Subscription Editor's address) and a quarterly Bulletin for its members. The MCOA offers a Genetic Data Collection Service to individuals and breeders who are interested in researching the genetic background of their dogs (see MCOA Health for more information). [Table Of Contents] Where do Mastiffs come from? See Mastiff History for a brief history. [Table Of Contents] What are Mastiffs good for? Mastiffs excel as companions, family members, therapy workers and as watch dogs. Mastiffs have also done well, when properly trained and conditioned, at carting, tracking, obedience, conformation showing, search and rescue (SAR), and weight pulling. They are also great foot warmers and couch potatoes. :-) [Table Of Contents] Are all mastiffs the same? No. Like humans, Mastiffs are individuals. Each has its own genetic and environmental history that effects its attitude, temperament, health and responses to stimuli. These questions are answered with the general breed characteristics in mind, no individual Mastiff will match the answers in every respect. Oh, that's not what you meant. While it is correct that the breed of mastiff dog developed in England has pre-empted the official name of 'Mastiff', according to the AKC's 'The Complete Dog Book', 18th Edition, "The breed commonly called "Mastiff" in English speaking countries is more properly described as the 'Old English' Mastiff." From the same source: "The term 'mastiff' describes a group of giant varieties of dogs rather than a single breed." Today this group of giant breed dogs is more commonly referred to as 'Molossers'. If this is what you meant, then No, not all mastiffs are the same. See Other Molossers for a list of some of the different Molosser Breeds. [Table Of Contents] Are Mastiffs:   Aggressive? Aggression is unnecessary force or dominance in any situation. Aggression should not be confused with protection where a dog uses force or dominance to protect its people or territory when threatened. The typical Mastiff's temperament, by nature, is one of gentle demeanor. However, as with any breed, a Mastiff can become aggressive for varying reasons. Typically, aggressive behavior is established due to environment as a "learned response" and/or results from a lack of proper socialization during the dog's developmental stages. A certain percentage of dogs may be genetically unstable and inherit aggressive tendencies. For this reason, before you purchase a puppy, it is best to ask the breeders about the temperament of the sire and the dam and try to see both if at all possible. Some dogs may have a predisposition for certain characteristics which may be the basis for aggressive behavior: a dominant dog may exhibit Dominant Aggression, an unsocialized dog may develop Fear Motivated Aggression, or a dog unsocialized with other dogs may develop Species Aggression. Most aggression can be prevented by proper rearing and socialization, beginning as a puppy. If you are experiencing a problem, consult your Mastiff's breeder, your veterinarian, and/or a trained animal behaviorist BEFORE the problem becomes serious. [Table Of Contents] Easy to train? Both easy and difficult. Mastiffs are smart, and live to please. However, they go through phases where they are also stubborn, and these phases can last anywhere from a few weeks a couple of times in puppyhood to (in some cases) the lifetime of the dog! Keep training sessions short (10-15 minutes) and frequent (several times a day). In addition to their stubbornness, Mastiffs have very sensitive feelings, and if they are frightened, hurt, or confused, they cannot be budged. Make training like a game. Use a happy, excited voice. You have to be consistent and firm to train effectively. Once a dog is well trained, it needs practice on a regular basis. Dogs LIKE to be trained because they WANT to know how to please their beloved owners. Once trained, a Mastiff seldom needs stronger correction than a stern voice. Except for formal obedience training, you can use food treats for motivation. But the best reward for any Mastiff is lavish hugs and plenty of praise. [Table Of Contents] Fighters? Mastiffs, with their gentle natures, do not have the instincts that dogfighters are looking for. Their protective instincts make them actually the opposite to the aggressive fighting personality. However, they will, at times, fight among themselves, or with other dogs, for the typical canine reasons such as pack dominance and sexual competition. Two 190 pound adult male Mastiffs in combat for pack leadership can be next to impossible, as well as exceedingly dangerous, to separate. [Table Of Contents] Good guard dogs? Mastiffs are excellent guard dogs. They go to the door and bark, their hackles stand up, and they look formidable, but Mastiffs, as a breed, are not trigger-happy. They have a gentle, rather than an aggressive, nature. Mastiffs need the company of their human family much more than some other breeds of dogs do. A Mastiff left alone, tied out, or kept in a fenced yard with too little human company, will either pine away or develop destructive behaviors out of loneliness and anxiety. Denied the needed time with its family, a Mastiff may be much LESS protective because it isn't sure it belongs to that family. A normal, well adjusted Mastiff will protect it's family, but only if the need arises. You don't want an aggressive Mastiff that protects you from friends and family. The ideal temperament is one where you never know that you are being protected unless a true situation arises where a Mastiff's services are needed. [Table Of Contents] Protective? Mastiffs ARE protective. However, many people do not understand the difference between protection and aggression. If a dog growls when there is no danger, that is aggression, NOT protection. A protective dog has the judgment to see when there is a real risk of danger, and therefore, if you have a TRULY protective dog, you may never know it till you ARE in danger. The protective instinct is shown in subtle ways, such as the Mastiff tending to stand between their person and a stranger. Many people who have kids discover that they can't spank a kid in front of the Mastiff -- it looks worried and gets in between the parent and child! Couples who sometimes play-wrestle together have reported their Mastiff trying to stop them for fear it is a fight. [Table Of Contents] Shy? Because of their great sensitivity, Mastiffs who are not THOROUGHLY socialized when young can very easily become shy of strange people, places, and animals. Shyness can be both inherited and/or the result of inadequate socialization. This is why puppy kindergarten, obedience classes over an extended period of time, and visits to parks are EXTREMELY important to the development of your Mastiff. If you do not have the time to do these things with and for your Mastiff, you need to think over whether you are in a position to do right by a dog, at least at this point in your life. A shy dog is an uneasy, unhappy dog. If your dog is more shy than the average, then it is more important than ever to get the right amount of gentle, gradual socialization with lots of positive reinforcement for all its friendly, confident, non-shy actions. [Table Of Contents] What are Mastiffs like in the house? Clean, quiet, and undemanding. Heaven to a Mastiff is a rug beside his owner's chair. Mastiffs are naturally clean (except for slobber), and quick to housebreak. Most adult Mastiffs don't chew what they shouldn't, and they don't get on the furniture (unless you let them ;-)). If you do let your young Mastiff on the sofa, just remember that they grow FAST, and it is unfair and quite unreasonable to let the dog learn to enjoy something, and then decide the dog is too big to get up there any more. Mastiffs have long memories, and are much easier to train correctly the first time than to retrain to get rid of bad habits. [Table Of Contents] How much does a Mastiff:   Cost? Puppy prices usually run $800-1500 and up, depending on a number of variables such as pedigree, show potential, geographic location, and breeder costs. A higher price does NOT necessarily mean a better dog! Read this FAQ thoroughly to learn about testing and other evidences of health and soundness, as well as show wins, as the basis for selecting the pup most likely to be healthy, happy, and just what you want. [Table Of Contents] Eat? Probably not as much as you think. Pound for pound, the larger the dog the less food it needs for each pound of body weight. Exactly how much food your dog needs depends on many factors including its size, age and activity level. Feed your Mastiff a good quality, balanced diet - low on table scraps - and don't let him get too fat. [Table Of Contents] Weigh? Adult males generally run about 160-230 pounds, females are normally between 120-170 pounds. Males over 200 pounds are not too uncommon and a few females reach these weights. According to the Guinness Book of Records the record holder for the world's largest dog is Zorba, a Mastiff, at 343 pounds. He stood 37 inches at the shoulder and was 8 foot 3 inches from the tip of his nose to the tip of his tail. Zorba set this record in November, 1989, when he was 8 years old. [Table Of Contents] Do Mastiffs:   Bark much? Puppies are puppies in most breeds. Young pups tend to bark more than adults because of the excitement of play. Adults rarely bark except when you first arrive home, or they hear a sound they want you to investigate, like a doorbell. Most Mastiffs will howl if they hear a siren close by, since it sounds like a howl such as wild dogs would respond to. Bite? Any dog bites if hurt, frightened, or threatened, but a Mastiff that is properly trained and socialized will typically not bite except as a very last resort. Do NOT let a pup (of any age) bite anyone or anything (except its litter mates) in play, since they NEED to know that biting is not allowed. They will still bite if there is an absolute necessity, but will not try it any other times. Chew? As for chewing, puppies of any breed need to be given durable toys that they know it is OK to chew. Any time you catch your puppy chewing on anything except its own chew toys, take the forbidden item away from it, and give it a chew toy, and encourage the dog to chew on its own toy. Praise it when it DOES chew on its own toy. Repeat as necessary (remember, we told you these dogs are stubborn!) [Table Of Contents] Dig? Engineers on the Panama Canal project considered bringing in a myriad of Mastiffs to do the job, but ultimately rejected the idea when they figured out the manpower they'd have tied up in pooper scoopering. Seriously, though, many Mastiffs do like to dig. You'll have to ask them why. Make good obedience dogs? By nature, Mastiffs are eager to please. This makes them good Obedience dogs. But like any other breed, temperaments vary between individuals, so some Mastiffs are better candidates for the Obedience ring than others. Some Mastiffs are more laid back, aloof, and lethargic; while others are more outgoing, inquisitive, and athletic. Though both types of temperaments are trainable, the latter of these two temperaments would be better suited for competition in the Obedience ring. [Table Of Contents] Need a lot of exercise? About as much as you do. Most Mastiffs are like most humans; they can manage a sedentary life reasonably well - but, also like most humans, they reach a physical peak with a moderate degree of exercise. It is important that you NOT over exercise any Mastiff under 2 years of age. Up until this age (and sometimes later) their skeleton is still developing. Since Mastiffs tend to be stoic, and also will do just about anything to be with and please their people, they can easily end up with an inflamed joint or other problems like those that beset humans who run for exercise. When you do begin to exercise your Mastiff, begin GRADUALLY. Build up SLOWLY. Make sure you know and watch for the signs of your dog getting tired or overheated. Take ice and water with you in case the dog overheats. The extra weight will add more effect to your workout! This is not to say that Mastiffs should not have any exercise at all as pups. On the contrary, Mastiff puppies are still puppies and need to do puppy things like running and playing. If left to their own schedule, they will rest themselves when they get tired. Crating a pup for most of its puppyhood is more detrimental than letting it play and exercise in moderation in the house and yard. If you go for long walks and your pup gets tired, be prepared to carry it home! Once a Mastiff is fully grown and its growth plates have closed, it can usually keep up with the best of us! Pass gas? Yep. Especially on a diet of beer, hard-boiled eggs and beans. Actually, like humans, it depends on how the Mastiff reacts to the food it eats, so using a good dog food should minimize the problem. If a dog can digest its food properly, it shouldn't have gas. Different dogs do best on different foods. See Question 20. 'What does a Mastiff eat?' for more information. If a Mastiff should get gas in spite of your best efforts, watch out. It is overpowering. Roam? Not usually. A Mastiff of either sex tends to be stay-at-home dog. Learning to stay within property boundaries comes naturally. Some individuals, however, would put Houdini to shame. Nevertheless, when your Mastiff is outdoors without supervision, as with all breeds, it's a good idea to have him in a secure, fenced enclosure. [Table Of Contents] Shed? Yes, like most breeds they shed approximately twice a year. But, the short, sleek Mastiff coat is less objectionable, when it sheds, than the coats of many long-haired breeds. A daily brushing will prevent accumulation of hair around the house. Slobber? Most Mastiffs only drool when 1) they have just had a drink of water or just ate, or 2) they are extremely agitated and fearful, or 3) you are eating anything that smells better than dogfood, and you have been foolish enough to feed the dog some of your food at any time in the past. Mastiffs with tighter lips tend to drool less. Experienced Mastiff folks keep hand towels all around, to wipe faces after every drink and meal, and other times as needed. If you wipe the drool off immediately, it is a lot less likely to get slung onto the dog's face or body, your furniture, you, or the walls. If it makes you feel any better, 1) you get used to it, and 2) St. Bernard breeders say their dogs can hit the ceiling with their slingers, while Mastiffs tend to only hit about waist height on a human. Actually, if you are a habitual face-wiper it won't be bad at all, but to be realistic, "spit happens". [Table Of Contents] Smell? Well, Mastiffs aren't bred for tracking, so they don't all have the best scent discrimination. Oh, you mean smell as in having B.O.? Mastiffs need occasional bathing, but since they have a short coat, they dry fairly fast. If a Mastiff has a bad odor despite regular bathing with a good dog shampoo approved by your breeder or vet, it may have a medical problem such as fungus in the ears or between the toes, or a digestive or dental problem, which can cause bad breath. Hypothyroid dogs tend to have B.O., and infected anal glands can cause a serious stench. Time to go to the vet to check it out. Snore? Yes. Ohhhh, yes. You'd better believe it! Actually, snoring is genetic. The reason a dog snores is due to a long soft palate (the back of the upper palate). This characteristic, like any other, is inherited. This does NOT mean that the dog has to have a long 'muzzle' to be a snorer! It just means that the upper palate has a longer soft palate. So you may see certain bloodlines which do not have as many problems with snoring and some which are horrendous snorers. Live indoors or outdoors? Indoors, of course. What's the sense of having a Mastiff if you don't have it close to you? It certainly can't protect you from the boogie man if it's tied out in the yard. And it's useless as a footstool if you keep it fastened in a kennel or locked in the garage. Seriously, Mastiffs seem to have an instinctive need and desire to be as close as possible to their human family, to the point that their emotional development can be stunted if they are deprived of that closeness. Many breeders will refuse to sell a Mastiff unless the new owner guarantees that it will be kept as a house dog. [Table Of Contents] How are Mastiffs with:   Burglars, muggers and other miscreants? Mastiffs tend to react in predictable ways when faced with a threatening person. If their owner is present and a tense situation arises between the owner and a stranger, the dog will usually get between the stranger and their owner, as a sort of giant protective barrier that no sane mugger would reach over. If the stranger does anything to escalate the tension, the dog will probably growl or snarl at the person. This may occur even within a family, if, for example, the owners fight. This may upset the Mastiff greatly and inspire him to protect the party who is on the receiving end of the disagreement. If a stranger breaks into a house where there is a Mastiff, the Mastiff's tendency is to corner the person and not let them get away, holding them until their owner gets home to deal with the intruder. The dog may snarl or bark or even snap at the intruder if he tries to get away, but usually will not actually hurt him unless the intruder has tried to hurt the dog or has succeeded in hurting him. Dogs are creatures of habit, and it is this characteristic that makes them good guards. If, while your Mastiff is a puppy, you allow strangers like repairmen to come into your house when you are away, the dog will see that as normal for your household, and will not realize it is not "OK" for other strange people to come in and do things. Many Mastiffs, when mature, can recognize something about people who have unpleasant motives, and are watchful or will get in between you and that person. If your dog gets between you and a stranger in a questionable situation, trust your Mastiff! The dog may have sensed something you couldn't recognize in that person. Because of the intrinsic protective nature of the Mastiff, training as an attack or guard dog is not necessary and to do so may actually be detrimental to the temperament of the Mastiff. Mastiffs are not suitable for attack training or dog fighting and, if raised in kindness and socialized properly, will be a strong, loving companion who will defend his home and family if necessary. [Table Of Contents] Other dogs? By nature a typical Mastiff is friendly and aloof toward other dogs. But, as with any breed, they must be properly socialized around other dogs from early puppyhood. Most cases of Dog Aggression in the Mastiff, or in any breed, are due to this lack of early introduction and stimuli with other dogs. This type of behavioral disorder is usually classified as Species Aggression. Another type of Canine Aggression is Dominance Aggression. A dog with dominant tendencies may seek to change its position in the pecking order by being aggressive toward another dog. This can really be a problem when there is more than one Dominant Aggressive dog in a multiple dog household. For this reason, it is best not place a dominant Mastiff in the same household with another dominant dog, especially of the same sex. While everything may seem fine while the puppy is young, as it matures it will seek to move up in the pack hierarchy and will compete for dominance with the other dog resulting in family turmoil. In most cases, proper socialization and adequate stimuli is the best way to head off most aggressive behavioral disorders before they have a chance to develop. If your Mastiff is aggressive, first, consult a canine behaviorist or professional trainer to determine if the dog can overcome some or all of this behavioral problem through retraining. ALSO have your veterinarian check for physical problems that can effect behavior, especially hormone problems such as hypothyroidism. Often spaying or neutering a dog aggressive dog will limit some of its tendencies to fight or dominate another dog, as well as cool some of the instinctive fighting among males and females in heat. If you are feeding a food that is in high in protein, try a food that is around 18% protein, some dogs are sensitive to excess levels of protein. If your Mastiffs do get into a fight, do NOT get between them. If someone else, known to the dogs, is there, each of you should grab a dog by the rear legs and drag them away from each other and separate them so that they cannot see or get to each other. [Table Of Contents] Other animals? The earliest socialization, at the breeder's, and while a puppy is very young, influences how a particular Mastiff will behave with other animals. You want him to learn what YOU want him to accept while he is still small (this means it has to be done *very* young!) since a larger dog is much harder to control, and bad habits are harder to break than good habits. Some Mastiffs are born with a high prey drive and these dogs will need special training if a multi-pet household is to maintain harmony. A Mastiff who hasn't been exposed to cats or chickens or farm animals or whatever while young may treat them as prey or furniture, depending on the temperament of the individual dog. Some Mastiffs live well with cats, and recognize that the cats have to feel they are the bosses. Others chase cats without mercy even if they are wonderful dogs in every other way. Some dogs that were not raised around horses may sniff once, then ignore them, others may be afraid of them, others interested, etc. The point is, *you* need to plan what to socialize your dog to, so it will know how to behave around the animals that are or will be part of your household. Then it is not up to the highly individual reactions of a half- or fully-grown dog, but your choice. [Table Of Contents] Strangers? A properly socialized Mastiff (which SHOULD be the only kind there is) will stand or sit beside you politely when a stranger is around. The world is full of people who are strangers to you and your dog, but who are nice, normal, decent folks who pose no threat. A Mastiff that is properly socialized (and free of severe shyness) should be polite, possibly aloof, but eventually friendly, after the dog sees your positive reaction to someone. [Table Of Contents] Young children? They are gentle and protective, providing they have been raised with children and are accustomed to them. Small children should not be allowed to play roughly with a puppy; Mastiffs are a sensitive breed that can be permanently traumatized by rough handling. [Table Of Contents] How long does a Mastiff live? Books on the breed describe the average Mastiff life span as 6-10 years. A few have lived to be 13 or 14; a tiny handful have lived to be 16-17. Assuming no accidents, an individual dog's life span will depend on its bloodlines, weight, and freedom from significant problems such as blindness, heart disease, hip or elbow dysplasia, spondylosis, immune disorders, etc. (see Questions 16, 17 and MCOA Health for more information on health problems). Sadly, there has been an increase in the death of middle aged and younger Mastiffs in the past 10 years or so, although this is not specific to Mastiffs but applies to most breeds. The increase in hereditary problems in all breeds has had the effect of shortening the lives of a number of animals in each breed, thus bringing down the averages. This is why we emphasize testing for health problems and breeding animals ONLY after they have been proven to be free of evidence of significant hereditary diseases. Choosing your breeder carefully, for awareness of problems and for evidence of specific actions taken consistently over a period of time to prevent these problems, will greatly increase your chances of getting a healthy dog with the potential to live to a ripe old age. [Table Of Contents] Can I get a white Mastiff? What colors can I get? No, Mastiffs come in Apricot, Brindle, and various shades of Fawn. Since one of the faults listed in the breed standard is "excessive white on the chest or white on any other part of the body", then a Mastiff with much white on it at all is *not* correctly marked according to the breed standard. There are breeds for which white is a correct, acceptable color, but the Mastiff is not one of them. [Table Of Contents] Male vs. female, which is friendlier? more protective? easier to train? These are all traits that tend to vary more between individual animals than between the sexes. A healthy, alert, intelligent dog who did well on the Puppy Aptitude test and has been well socialized and trained from Puppy Kindergarten onward is your best chance at getting all the above characteristics. Socializing a dog who started out with a good temperament gives you the friendliest dog. A dog is protective when it has bonded well with you (training your dog is an outstanding way to bond with it) and has at least begun to mature. If you start training very young the dog learns how to *learn* and will enjoy it more and perform better. [Table Of Contents] Is there anything special I should know about raising a Mastiff puppy - isn't it the same as any other breed? Due to their rapid growth and their eventual giant size and weight, there are special precautions that should be taken with growing Mastiff puppies. See Raising a Mastiff Pup for details. [Table Of Contents] How much training does a Mastiff need? Because they are destined to be VERY large dogs, basic obedience training should be a part of every Mastiff's upbringing. Adequate socialization is an extremely important part of a puppy's training. An unsocialized dog, of any breed, can become either fearful or aggressive. A well socialized Mastiff is a stable Mastiff. Most Mastiffs are easy to train because they are so eager to please, but they are generally more easily trained when young. A puppy's brain develops very rapidly. New information is absorbed at an astonishing rate as they learn from their environment. You want to make certain that WHAT they learn is desirable; therefore, you must guide them in their learning process. Also, just as inany other breed, some individuals are stubborn, dominant, etc., and in such cases the behavior pattern should be identified early and the training adjusted appropriately to compensate for it. Unless you plan to compete in conformation or obedience, basic obedience is all your puppy really needs to become a valued family companion. Basic obedience consists of: sit, down, stay, come, walk on lead and proper socialization. To find Obedience and Socialization classes, contact your local Kennel Clubs and veterinarians. If you cannot locate classes, take your puppy out often to places where it can meet people and other dogs in a friendly atmosphere. A Mastiff does not need protection training. A well socialized Mastiff has, in essence, been taught what a normal situation is and will be able to sense when something is wrong. Even the gentlest Mastiff will protect its family if it is well socialized and bonded to them. [Table Of Contents] Do Mastiffs have any genetic health problems? Mastiffs are probably about average when it comes to the number of hereditary health problems that they are prone to. Being a large breed they are very prone to joint problems. For more information on genetic problems, please refer to MCOA Health.   Potentially life threatening or serious: (*these conditions may be inherited or in some cases acquired)   Joint: hip dysplasia; elbow dysplasia (ununited anconeal process, fragmented coronoid process, degenerative joint disease); osteochondritis dissecans (OCD) of the shoulders, knees, elbows or hocks. Eye problems that cause blindness: cataracts*, retinal dysplasia with detachment, glaucoma*, progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) Other inherited eye problems: geographic retinal dysplasia, Persistent Pupillary Membranes (PPM), entropion. Hypothyroidism*, immune deficiencies. Wobblers syndrome. Skin: demodectic mange, deep pyoderma. Nervous system: myasthenia gravis*, muscular dystrophy*, epilepsy* Other: cardiomyopathy*, leukemia, bone cancer*, cystinuria.   Less serious and/or less common: (*these conditions may be inherited or in some cases acquired)   Eye problems: ectropion, iris cysts, macroblapharon (haw), corneal dystrophy*, distichiasis, cherry eye, dry eye, retinal folds. Skin: allergies Joint problems: HOD (hypertrophic Osteo Dystrophy), degenerative joint disease*, arthritis*, spondylosis of the spine. Reproductive: cryptorchid, monorchid, vaginal hyperplasia. Heart: murmurs*, pulmonic stenosis. Other: hernias, von Willebrands Disease (vWD). [Table Of Contents] What are the common non-genetic health problems in Mastiffs? Mastiffs are subject to the same common diseases and afflictions as every other breed of dog. Some of the more prevalent are:   Joint and bone: cruciate ligament rupture, panosteitis, elbow hygroma. Urinary tract: kidney and bladder infections, bladder stones. Ear infections, hot spots, cysts and tumors. Reproductive: uterine inertia, pyometra, other uterine infections, mastitis, breast cancer. Cancer (bowel, brain, spine, etc. Some forms of cancer are inherited, most are not). Other: gastric torsion (bloat), pica (eating rocks, socks, etc.) [Table Of Contents] What other problems do Mastiffs have?   Temperament:   Aggressive Fearful (inherited or lack of socialization). Shy   Structural faults:   Limbs: weak pasterns, cow-hocks, straight shoulders, stifles and/or hocks, elbows in or out instead of parallel Bite: very undershot, overshot, crooked teeth, wry (twisted) jaw Tail: abnormally short, kinked, bob tail Feet: flat (hare foot), loose toes, turned toes or feet Coat: long hair, no under coat, excessive white markings (piebald) Movement: paddling, crossing, sidewinding, overreaching, lack of drive.   Problems caused by their size:   Expensive and difficult to take on an airplane once mature Navigating steep stairs Getting into small cars Happy Tail (Crate Tail) syndrome - prone to abrasions (often accompanied by considerable blood splattering) from wagging against things. [Table Of Contents] What kind of a temperament does a Mastiff have? Mastiffs are called gentle giants because of their benign and benevolent character. A Mastiff's temperament is so much a part of how it needs to be raised and cared for that many of the questions in this FAQ have incorporated one aspect or another of the Mastiff temperament in their answers. A dog this big has no NEED to growl or make menacing noises or faces to impress a would-be burglar or mugger. Instead, it can and does simply relax, but keeps an eye on situations where its human family could possibly be in danger of any kind. Mastiffs have a somewhat contradictory nature, they are very sensitive to the reactions of their people, most Mastiffs can be absolutely crushed by harsh words. Yet Mastiffs can also be among the most stubborn of dogs, so stubborn that you may find it to be an immense challenge to get them to do the same thing over and over for an obedience class (the Mastiff probably would rather do it once and then take a nap or do something different). Mastiffs, like people, are highly individual. Some are placid, some are high energy animals who need to be kept busy. A lot of any Mastiff's behavior depends on how well it was socialized while young. [Table Of Contents] What does a Mastiff eat? A Mastiff will eat anything that is not nailed down! Mastiffs, being a giant breed, have the capability of chewing on things that most small breeds can't even get in their mouths. Oh, you meant food, huh? OK, Mastiffs do best on a food that is in the medium range for protein (20-25%), mid range for fat (12-18%) and is well balanced for calcium and phosphorus and high in iodine (3-5%). Feeding your Mastiff puppy foods high in protein, calories and fat will push the growth rate and possibly cause joint, ligament and tendon problems. It is best to grow your puppy at a slow, steady rate and not try to make him big too soon. Remember, the Mastiff will grow to what he was genetically programmed to be no matter how fast or slow that you get him there. It is best to take your time and grow them out slowly so as to minimize joint and bone problems and thus have a sound, healthy dog. If the dog food you intend to use is balanced for nutrition do not add supplemental calcium to the diet. Too much calcium causes more problems than too little! The amount of food is a judgment call, depending on the type of food you are feeding, the age of the Mastiff, and the body condition such as too fat, too thin or just right. Feed a good quality premium food, following the recommendations on the bag and adjusting the amount according to body condition. Do not let your Mastiff puppy or young adult get fat and make sure that you can feel the ribs or at least see the last two ribs when the dog is moving. Fat dogs have many problems with bones and joints, heart, liver, kidney, etc. Generally Mastiff puppies eat a lot of food while growing, until at least the age of two. An adult Mastiff generally has a slow metabolism and does not eat an exceptional amount of food, normally about the same as a German Shepherd or dog of similar or even smaller size. [Table Of Contents] What kind of living quarters does a Mastiff require? How about crating? Where do they sleep? The standard answer to this question: Anywhere they want to! Mastiffs consider themselves to be part of your family, and will be most content if they are able to share your home with you. Many Mastiff breeders feel so strongly about the Mastiff's need tobe with their human family that they will only sell a puppy to people who guarantee that it will live in the house with them. Within your home, Mastiffs need a place of their own where they will feel comfortable and secure, just like any other dog. Crates are a practical solution, especially for puppy house training and safety. Wire crates are best so that the pup can see out and because they are harder to chew or destroy. Purchase the largest one you can afford so your Mastiff can grow into it. A pallet by your bed is also a good idea since Mastiffs want to be with their families and it is generally not a good idea to let them sleep on the bed with you. Sleeping with you puts them on the same level as you, so you may wind up with a dominance problem; and jumping off of a bed is not good for the joints when they are young. Most Mastiffs will wind up forgoing any wonderful bed you make for them and will want to sleep on the tile or linoleum floor because it is cooler. Caution is advised here because Mastiffs tend to clunk down on their elbows when lying down and many develop elbow hygromas from the constant banging on the elbows. The best beds are soft pads with blankets over them or even a baby bed mattress with a cover. Don't be surprised if your youngster shreds his bed as this seems to be great fun to most puppies - be sure to remove any pieces because they can be dangerous if swallowed. [Table Of Contents] Does owning a Mastiff:   Cost a lot? A Mastiff costs more to maintain than smaller breeds due to its large size and weight. Larger crates cost more. More and larger consumables are needed - food, toys and the like. Many medicines, such as antibiotics, heartworm preventative and anesthesia are prescribed based on weight, so these cost more. A Mastiff on a 'chewing binge' can cause much more damage in a shorter time than smaller breeds. [Table Of Contents] Require a lot of work? Compared to what? Mastiffs, due to their tendency to be inert (like couch potatoes), and their short hair, do not require as much work as a breed that needs to run a lot for exercise, or needs daily brushing to keep a fluffy coat from getting matted. A Mastiff with a correct coat only needs a bath when it begins to smell "doggy" or if it has gotten into something that needs to be washed off. Bathing a Mastiff is sort of like washing a hairy Volkswagen except that the VW won't shake and drench you in shampoo or rinse water. Mastiffs need MODERATE exercise (if this much is too much for you, consider an older Rescue dog), a quality food with moderate protein and fat content, and the normal maintenance activities that any breed requires: clipping toenails, keeping teeth clean, ear cleaning, and regular vet checkups and vaccinations. The size of a Mastiff means that those toenails will be big and thick, harder to cut than those on a smaller dog. And they will eat a lot more food than your neighbor's poodle. Mastiffs tend to shed twice a year like most breeds, but when a huge dog sheds lightly, it can still add up to a lot of hair to vacuum. If you are grossed out by slingers and goobers, please be advised that if you own a Mastiff you might spend the rest of the dog's life wiping the walls and complaining about the mess. If you CAN handle it, you will learn tricks like wiping the dog's face as soon as it has finished drinking (to catch the slingers before they are slung). [Table Of Contents] Are you trying to talk me out of getting a Mastiff? No and yes. No, because it would be wonderful if everyone could experience the joy and satisfaction of being owned by one of these gentle giants. Yes, because, as great and wonderful as they are, they have idiosyncrasies and problems particular to the breed. It would be much, much, much better if you found out that a Mastiff wasn't the breed for you NOW instead of after you've already gotten one. Mastiffs are not the right breed for everyone. Mastiffs are giants and take up a lot of space on the couch and in the house and car. They have powerful tails that can clean off a coffee table in one fell swoop or knock a small child down with one wag. And the smack of a tail is like being tortured with a rubber hose! Most Mastiff's drool and slobber, especially after eating and drinking. Many leave water trails all over the house after a drink and prefer to wipe their faces on their owners. Mastiffs like to be close to their family and will sit on your feet, lean against you, often put their paw on you and lay their heavy head in your lap. Occasionally people can be unintentionally injured by an exuberant Mastiff. Mastiffs like to follow you where ever you go and be part of whatever you do. They can block doorways with their huge bodies, stand in front of the TV and block your view, and take up large amounts of space with their crates and toys. If you can't handle any of the above, then a Mastiff is not the dog for you! Not recommended for:   Old, elderly, infirm - Mastiffs can accidentally knock down someone who is not steady on their feet; can aggravate back and other injuries; and, since they have the strength of a Rhino, can do unintended harm unless properly trained. If you just have to have one, an older, already trained Mastiff is recommended. See MCOA Rescue for information about Mastiff Rescue, the best place to start looking for an older, trained Mastiff. Small children - Children under about 6 can be knocked down by an exuberant puppy or adult. Mastiffs are, however, generally gentle with children of any age, but, you MUST supervise them when they are together so that neither the child nor the dog is injured. Small habitats - Mastiffs are not recommended for small apartments or tiny houses since they tend to grow so large. Too many Mastiffs end up in shelters or with Rescue because their owners didn't take their eventual size into consideration. The ideal environment is one with a comfortable house, access to a fenced yard for potty breaks, where the owner knows exactly what they are getting in advance. Guard dog - Mastiffs possess the natural ability to defend their family should the need arise. They should know the difference between friend and foe and pick up on the emotions of their owners. Mastiffs are not recommended as a guard dog for businesses or junkyards because of their instinctual need to bond with people and because they are so strong that they may overdo the guarding and hurt the wrong person. The Mastiff temperament is not suited for formal "guard dog" training due to their sensitive nature and because to do so may permanently ruin their temperament. Neat Freaks - Do not get a Mastiff if you are a person who must have a clean house at all times, can't stand dog hair on everything, or does not like the furniture being rearranged when a Mastiff decides that he wants to sleep behind the couch or under the table. Try to match your decor to the color of the dog hair and slobber. Workaholics - If you work long hours and someone isn't home often, you may want to rethink getting a Mastiff. Mastiffs like people and do not like being left alone all day in a crate or back yard. They bore easily and will find ways to entertain themselves while you are away. A bored, lonesome Mastiff may destroy things or turn their boredom on themselves causing such things as having to replace furniture (or walls), or requiring treatment for lick granulomas. If your home is frequently empty except for your dog, please reconsider getting a Mastiff and may we suggest a toy breed where you could have two to keep each other company or perhaps a cat, bird or reptile. Those on a tight budget - Mastiffs are giants and therefore the cost of upkeep is high. Everything you need to maintain one is expensive from the bedding, the collars, the food bowls, the food, to the vet bills. If you are on a tight budget or do not enjoy spending money on your dog, please reconsider getting this breed. The initial purchase price of the pup will be the least expensive part of owning a Mastiff. [Table Of Contents] Where should I get a Mastiff?   Middleman who buys puppies from breeders and resells them? NO!   Pet Shop? NO!   Backyard breeder? NO!   Reputable breeder? YES! The best way to get a healthy, happy, quality Mastiff puppy, is to buy directly from a breeder. Reputable breeders put the welfare of their dogs and the improvement of the breed above their desire for financial gain. Reputable breeders will take back or replace a puppy who is found to have a congenital defect. Breeders who are members of the Mastiff Club Of America have agreed to abide by a Code of Ethics. A Breeder Referral list is available from the MCOA, see Mastiff Breed Clubs for details.   Mastiff Rescue? YES! Unfortunately, usually through no fault of their own, a number of Mastiffs end up homeless every year. The MCOA's Rescue Service is charged with helping these distressed Mastiff's find new homes. See MCOA Rescue for more information. [Table Of Contents] Where can I get more information about Mastiffs? See Mastiff Publications for Mastiff information sources and Mastiff Breed Clubs for Mastiff Clubs and contacts. [Table Of Contents] How do I pick a Mastiff puppy? After you have chosen your breeder and your puppy's sire and dam, you're ready to choose your Mastiff puppy. But which one? The most important aspect of this choice is temperament. Puppies' temperament's vary even within the same litter. Many people will choose the first puppy that runs up to them and pulls at their pant leg because they think this must be a more outgoing puppy. Not every Mastiff is for every family and this puppy may not necessarily be THE puppy for your family. So how DO you choose a puppy?. You should choose a Mastiff puppy that has a temperament that compliments your family's. Ideally your puppy's breeder will use Puppy Aptitude Testing and family profiles to match puppies with their new owners. Puppy Aptitude Testing evaluates the individual temperament of each puppy. A family profile consists of a series of questions which allows the breeder to assess your family's situation and disposition. The breeder may even ask to choose a puppy for you. If the breeder is skilled in Puppy Aptitude Testing, they can generally choose the best puppy for your family. If the breeder does not perform these tests, you will need to know how to choose the right puppy yourself. First, look at your family's situation: Do you have small children? Do you have elderly in your household? Is your family quiet or of gentle nature? Do you already have another dog? Do you feel guilty when disciplining your children or current dog? If you have answered "yes" to any of these questions you may prefer a puppy with a more subordinate temperament. A dog with dominant tendencies would not fit into this particular family situation. Dogs are pack animals and they will try to establish a pecking order within their pack, and your family will be their new pack. Subordinate (submissive) does not mean shy or timid. A puppy with a subordinate temperament will simply be closer to the bottom of the dominance ladder (pecking order). A subordinate puppy will not try to dominate the small children within your household, nor will it be as apt to challenge your authority or to compete with another dog for dominance. Note: Timidity (shyness) is a genetic fault in Mastiffs. If you already have a dog: Is it submissive or dominant? What is its size? Is it male or female? With another dog already in the family, especially a dominant one, consider a Mastiff puppy with a more submissive temperament and/or one of the opposite sex. A submissive puppy will be less likely to challenge your existing dog for pecking order. Males seldom compete with females for leadership position. Smaller dogs can be easily injured if they are involved in disputes with a Mastiff. Are you experienced with large breeds? Do you NOT have small children nor elderly within your home? Are you comfortable offering constructive criticism? Have you had any dog training experience of any kind? Is your current dog a larger breed of submissive nature? Do you have the time and are you planning to train this puppy in either Obedience, Conformation, or for Canine Good Citizenship? Is your family active and outgoing? If you have answered "yes" to all of these questions you may wish to consider a puppy with more dominant tendencies. Dominant does not mean aggressive. A Mastiff with dominant tendencies is one which would compete for its place higher up on the dominance ladder. It will be more apt to challenge a child or another dog. There is a difference between a dog with dominant tendencies and a true Alpha dog. An Alpha dog, of any breed, may even try to challenge YOUR authority. It is never a good idea to place a dominant puppy into a home with another dominant dog, especially of the same sex. Properly reared dogs with dominant tendencies can be wonderful, loving family companions. [Table Of Contents] What questions should I ask the breeder (and what answers should I get)? Before talking to a breeder, before you even start looking for a puppy, DO YOUR HOMEWORK FIRST! Read this FAQ. Check out the books and other resources listed in the References and Resources. Read the FAQs on 'Selecting a Dog', 'Getting a Dog', 'Your New Puppy', 'Your New Dog', 'Health Care Issues' and other subjects (these can be found at http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/). Go to the library. Read, read, read. Ask veterinarians what they see frequently and what to be aware of. Go to some dog shows and talk to the exhibitors. It is vital to have knowledge BEFORE you get or even start looking for a puppy. Forewarned is forearmed. This may seem like a lot of research, but you are undertaking a long term commitment that may last 8, 10 or even more years - longer than a new car, often longer than a house, or even, these days, longer than a spouse! A Mastiff will quickly become a major factor in your day to day existence, with significant influence on your lifestyle. It is up to you to do everything you can ahead of time to ensure that this influence will be a positive one. A hastily or poorly chosen Mastiff can make your life miserable, and, if subject to health problems, can cause a significant drain on your financial resources. Questions contains a list of questions that you should ask the breeder of a Mastiff puppy that you are contemplating acquiring. The 'Getting a Dog FAQ' contains more general questions to ask a breeder. [Table Of Contents] What kind of toys and other paraphernalia do I need for my Mastiff?   TOYS Mastiffs are big, strong puppies and even bigger, stronger adults, with a biting capacity of estimated at over 300 psi. Keeping that in mind, most toys and chewies for your Mastiff will have to be durable and able to withstand major abuse. Many toys are suitable for youngsters but not for adults and you will have to add to the toy box as your Mastiff grows older and stronger. When first introducing a new toy it is a good idea to supervise your Mastiff to see how they handle it. If they rip the toy to shreds and start swallowing lots of it - take it away and try a different toy. Each dog is an individual and what is good for one is not necessarily good for another. Some good toys to start out with are: Puppies - Nylabones, Kongs, Vermont Chews (stuffed), compressed rawhide bones (not shredded and pressed together, but whole pieces rolled up and compressed under thousands of pounds of steam), carefully selected children's stuffed animals, plastic soda bottles with the cap and cap ring removed (discard if the pup starts to tear apart), knotted rope bones (discard when shredded), large rope rings, soccer and basketballs, various dental chews, hard plastic or pvc balls, safe squeaky toys (human children's are the safest and least toxic), raw or sterilized beef bones, raw fruit and vegetables (No onion!), empty cardboard boxes (remove all staples, loose packing and labels), empty toilet paper and paper towel tubes (pups will empty them for you!) and cow ears. Puppies also enjoy shredding newspaper but it is messy and they can get black ink on themselves. It's not toxic though and it won't hurt them, unless they eat to much! Adult (over 6 months) - Same as above but delete the squeaky toys and plastic balls. Add old lawn mower tires, large knotted rope bones, huge nylabones and dental chews, big beef bones (knuckle, femur, etc.), larger fruit and vegetables (edible, biodegradable toys!), giant Kongs, large cardboard boxes (messy, but so much fun). There isn't a toy made that a Mastiff cannot destroy so please be careful in your selection and keep an eye on them. If any of the toys you have selected become badly chewed, shredded or have chunks missing, discard them and get something else. Each Mastiff is a little different in how it deals with each object. Some will lay down and eat a whole bone whereas others will occasionally gnaw on it and have it last a long time. Some will ignore toys that others covet. Try various things and see what your dog likes. Remember, anything can be dangerous if not used properly and can cause problems for your Mastiff. The best advice is to know your dog and watch it with new toys until you are certain that the toys won't be eaten (except for fruit & veggies) or destroyed in one sitting! Have fun and be creative!   FOOD and WATER DISHES Stainless steel is suggested for several reasons. It is basically indestructible and is easy to sterilize and dishwasher safe. Buy the largest one you can find for a water bowl and at least a 5 qt. size for the food.   COLLARS and LEASHES Up until about 6 months old, most collars will work just fine including the adjustable ones with a plastic snap. After 6 months it is best to use a buckle type collar made of either wide nylon or leather. A six foot lead is recommended for training and a shorter leash for going on walks. You can use either nylon or leather, just be sure it has a strong snap! For formal training, like at an obedience class, you will need a "choke" chain, usually made with metal links. Your instructor will advise you of the correct size and how to put it on the pup and how to use it properly. Remember: NEVER leave a dog, puppy or adult, unattended with a choke collar on as they can easily get it caught on something, even in a crate, and strangle themselves! One company that publishes a catalog specifically for big dog items is Big Dog Basics & Pyraphernalia at (316) 276-8665. The 'Resources FAQ' at http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/has an extensive list of dog supply catalogs, magazines, and organizations. In it you can find listing for things such as weight pulling harnesses, backpacking necessities and everything else imaginable for your Mastiff. [Table Of Contents] Is that a Mastiff in:   Beethoven?   No, a St. Bernard. Cybil?   Yes. Howard Huge?   No, a St. Bernard(?). Marmaduke?   No, a Great Dane. Sandlot?   Yes. The Secret Garden?   Yes. That's My Dog?   Yes. The Truth About Dogs?   No, a ???. Turner and Hooch?   No, a Dogue de Borduex (French Mastiff). Meet Wally Sparks?   Yes. [Table Of Contents] What's the difference between a Mastiff and a Bullmastiff? The Mastiff is an ancient British breed and its history can be traced back over 2,000 years. The Bullmastiff is a relatively recent breed developed from crossing Mastiff (60%) and Bulldog (40%) stock. The Bullmastiff's shorter, more compact, more muscular look; shorter muzzle; higher energy level and greater stubbornness are derived from the Bulldog part of the Bullmastiff's ancestry. The most noticeable differences are temperament, the conformation of the heads and overall size of the dogs. Mastiffs have a mellower, more relaxed temperament, compared to the pushier, more active temperament of the typical Bullmastiff. The Mastiff's forehead should be slightly curved and the stop (indentation between the eyes) well marked but not too abrupt while the Bullmastiff's forehead should be flat and the stop moderate. Mastiff males should be at least 30" at the shoulder and females 27 1/2" at the shoulder, with no upper limit for height. Bullmastiff males should be between 25-27" at the shoulder and females 24-26" at the shoulder. Weight ranges differ significantly between the breeds, with the Bullmastiff being smaller as well as more compact. The Bullmastiff Standard lists 110-130 pounds for males, 100-120 pounds for females. While the Mastiff Standard specifies no weight ranges, males weights usually run 160 pounds and up, females 120 pounds and up. [Table Of Contents]     HOME * MY STORY * PHOTO ALBUM * MASTIFF FAQ MASTIFF RESCUE * GUESTBOOK